Portugal Fashion 2018: A Deconstruction of Modern Classics – Yesterday, the beautiful Portuguese city of Oporto was taken over by the country’s most talented designers. With a line up headlined by Inês Torcato, Luís Buchinho, Pé de Chumbo and Micaela Oliveira, the two stages were filled with reporters and fashionistas, eager to meet the new fall/winter 2018 trends. We ourselves couldn’t miss one of biggest fashion events of the year.
We´ve actually spent a few minutes talking with Portuguese supermodel Ruben Rua, who’s the event’s official host. Rua stated that the event, since its debut in 2006, has been constantly growing and expanding its reach to beyond the borders. The model, who himself will present a collection today with his brand Rufel, also stated that the luxury business has been growing in the country, representing currently 5% of Portugal’s GDP.
”The Portugal Fashion isn’t just a runway show, it’s a business”
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Pé de Chumbo
The metallic gleams are mixed with wool and chess, built in open textures with bulky shapes. Graphic tones, such as black, grey, white and red for a more urban and contemporary environment. A collection full of plasticized textures with frills that give shape and glitter to the extremely feminine silhouettes.
Heavily inspired by the classic tartans, the fall/winter Pé de Chumbo Collection divides itself into 3 main themes: casual, streetwear and party gowns. The ultra-contemporary collection takes shape with hefty threads and fabrics, mixing the urban wear with bucolic romanticism.
”This collection was designed under a constant experimentation, with our work being almost 100% handcrafted.” – Alexandra Oliveira, Pé de Chumbo’s Head Designer.
The show’s title (Woodland) describes a selection of proposals inspired by the comprehensiveness and contrasts of nature and which contours in the idyllic context of a forest. Micaela knew just what to do to seize everyone’s attention. After a complete renovation of the runway, where she turned a black room into an enchanted, central European forest, 4 Opera Singers debuted a show that will hardly be forgotten.
Between reality and imagination, the most magical and enchanting side of this scenario materializes in looks that emphasize transparencies, satin lustre, the touch of lace and textures of feather-like details.
The silhouette is of a princess: sometimes long, sometimes hourglassed. The marked belts and the volume in round skirts that take on imposing layers of tulle, and silk tails that oscillate between longer and shorter make the statement.
After presenting a line with sporting influence in October 2017, the stylist decided to bet on a more nocturnal collection (the one that gave the name of “Night Drive”), with many futuristic traits.
To achieve his vision, Buchinho was inspired by the daily life in the movie “Blade Runner 2049” for the choice of materials and silhouettes. Leather and PVC were the majority of the materials used in his fall/winter collection, bringing lightness and an eerie glow to his creations.
Raglan shirts, padded jackets and plated pockets were also a must in his collection.
To touch is the key, the inside is the answer. The proposals of the Oporto’s designer were inspired by the concept of self-portrait and what that expression means for each one of us. To Inês, gender fluidness was a key aspect of her fall/winter collection. When we asked her about that, she stated that she used the very same collection in AltaRoma and that all the pieces were both used by male and female models.
A collection that explores the formal deconstruction of the classics, which is painted in black, white, grey, brown and eggplant and that plays with the textures. It will be a fun and bold winter, thanks to Inês Torcato. She mixed cashmere and wool with waterproof nylons and added just the right amount of transparencies.
An ode to the graphic language, the designer collaborated with the writer and lyricist Regina Guimarães to create prints, giving proximity to the touch, the main concept of this collection.
”I don’t particularly follow trends, I design what I like, and what I want to wear” – Inês Torcato.
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